Symington 2007 Vintage Ports

After a very fine tasting and dinner a few weeks ago at wine collector and consultant Dr NK Yong’s, as I sat waiting for my taxi I was handed a small but perfectly ample measure of tawny coloured wine.  It was the vinous grand finale of a consummate wine host - here was a fully matured, wonderfully evolved glass of wine giving layer upon layer of harmonious flavors and with a finish that seemed to continue long into my cab ride home.  That this offering was both sweet and fortified were the last attributes to flag my attention.  Those few sips of Quinta do Noval Nacional 1960 reminded me that beyond this styling of waning appreciation, just how truly incredible a glass of Port can be.

Two days later I was invited to a preview in Singapore of Symington’s line-up of 2007 vintage ports, bringing a small double-entendre smirk to my face.  Firstly it was in anticipation of further treats to come, since I still had the fond remnants of that incredible Noval Nacional on my mind’s palate.  Secondly this one word, Symington, was also somewhat mischievously used as the topic for a WSET Diploma exam essay earlier this year.  Of course for anyone that is passionate about Port, to write an essay about Symington is a no-brainer.  The Symington Family owns four of the top names in Port:  Dow’s, Warre’s, Graham’s and Quinta do Vesuvio.  But many Asian based students were left scratching their heads.  Ports and the Symington name are not nearly so ubiquitous on wine lists and in cellars around these parts, and that’s a shame.

“Currently Asia is very much in its infancy when it comes to Port”, Euan Mackay, Sales Director for Symington Family Estates informed me, “and although we (Symington) have a significant share of the market, volumes still remain relatively small for a producer of our size.  What is clearly of interest is the level of growth that we have seen in this region over the past 5 and 10 years.  Our sales have grown by over 60% over the last 5 years and doubled over the last 10 years.  These are encouraging figures and certainly lead us to believe that Port has an interesting future in Asia.”

In Asia, Hong Kong and Singapore are the most significant markets for Symington’s Ports, where there tends to be a larger number of international hotels, restaurants and retailers.  “However in recent years we have begun to see an increasing level of interest in our wines in both Taiwan and South Korea, which is extremely encouraging,” said Mackay.  “China is still very embryonic in terms of Port but we are gradually gaining distribution which is our key objective at this stage.”

According to Mackay, visibility and a better understanding of what Port is and how it should be drunk are some of the key factors that greatly affect the sales of Port in the region. “Jorge Nunes, one of our oenologists, spends approximately three months a year travelling around the region conducting consumer tastings, staff training seminars and food pairing events all with a view to tackling these key issues. Within food pairing much of his time has been spent on developing the association between Port and chocolate which has attracted a lot of additional visibility for Port in both the consumer and food related press. This is slow and arduous work but we remain convinced that this is vitally important for the future expansion of sales of our Ports in Asia.”

Port en primeur campaigns are run a year after the Bordeaux primeurs, only after the vintage has been formally declared by the individual houses.  Earlier this year 2007 was declared pretty much universally.  And based upon the Symington 2007 wines that I tasted, it is looking to be a very special vintage at that.  The Douro’s cool, damp June / July 2007 followed by a glorious Indian summer may not have sired the big, rich, muscular Arnold Schwarzeneggers of the 2003 heat-wave, yet the 007s are perhaps indeed more comparable to James Bond, possessing great poise, elegance, structure and sophistication. 

The 2007 Vintage Port en primeur campaign began over the summer in markets such as the USA and UK and offers for the 2007s have just started trickling through in Asia, but are not likely to sell-through here with the bang that they should.  As always in this game, one wine consumer’s loss is another’s gain.  There is likely to remain availability here of even the very finest, small production 2007 Ports for those that act sharpish.  I strongly suggest Asian wine collectors find room in their cellars - in the decades to come you and perhaps even your heirs will be glad you did!

The offers on 2007 Symington Ports are just being released in Singapore.  To follow is a quick summary:

Graham’s and Quinta do Vesuvio are represented in Singapore by:
Taste of Tradition (Asia Pacific) Pte Ltd
Taste Fine Wine Merchant :: Booze Wine Shop :: Vermilion Wines and Spirits
113B Jalan Besar Singapore 208833
Tel: +65 6299 9300
Fax: +65 6299 6200

Graham’s Vintage 2007
Retail Price per 750 ml bt: S$140.00
Pre-arrival Price: S$119.00

Quinta do Vesuvio Vintage 2007
Retail Price per 750 ml bt: S$125.00
Pre-arrival Price: S$106.25

Dow’s is represented in Singapore by:
Cornerstone Wines Pte Ltd (Hock Tong Bee Pte Ltd)
61 Lorong 17, Geylang Road
#01-00, Singapore 388574
Tel:  +65 6732 0555
Fax:  + 65 6737 5910
Email: webmaster@cornerstonewines.com

Dow’s Vintage 2007
Recommended Selling Price per 750 ml bt: S$145.00, excl GST

Warre’s is represented in Singapore by:
Pinnacle Wine & Spirits Pte Ltd
8 Boon Lay Way
#05-04 Tradehub 21
609964
Singapore
Tel: +65 6266 1068
Fax: +65 2660 0118

Symington’s other Distributors in Asia:

HK - Graham's (Fine Vintage), Dow's and Quinta do Vesuvio (Links Concept) and Warre's (Watsons)
Japan - Graham's (Asahi), Dow's (Mercian), Warre's (Jeroboam) and Quinta do Vesuvio (Millesimes)
Taiwan - Graham's (Finesse), Dow's (Leading Brands), Warre's (Seedman)
China - Graham's (Torres), Dow's and Quinta do Vesuvio (Links Concept) and Warre's (Aussino)
S Korea - Graham's (Cave de Vin), Dow's (Nara Food) and Warre's (Lotte Asahi)

Tasting Notes

The wines were poured into glasses one hour prior to the tasting.  None of the bottles were decanted. 

Dow’s 2007
96 points
Aromas of preserved cherries and plums with pronounced spiciness: vanilla pod, star anise and cassia.  The palate is understandably tight, restrained, yet already showing superb acid / sweetness / tannin balance.  Plenty of rich, spicy fruit is supported by a medium to high level of very finely grained tannins.  Nice backbone of refreshing acidity.  Very long finish.  Drink 2020 – 2050+.  Tasted August 2009.

Quinta do Vesuvio 2007
96 points
The nose is somewhat subdued giving a gentle perfume of kirsch, violets, macerated blackberries and cedar complimented by earthy aromas of loam and underbrush.  The palate is taut with crisp acidity and a high level of very fine tannins.  Just enough richness to flesh-out the palate but not overwhelming.  Very long finish.  Drink 2020 – 2050+.  Tasted August 2009.

Warre’s 2007
95 points
A little mute to begin but with a fair bit of swirling reveals notes of mincemeat pie, dried plums and dark chocolate plus some meaty / gamey aromas.  The flavours on the palate are more savoury with firm, rugged tannins and a good amount of lively acid.  Very long finish.  Drink 2020 – 2050+.  Tasted August 2009.  

Graham’s 2007
98 points
The nose here can only be described as frustratingly coy but very, very pretty.  Core notes of warm blackberry and black cherry are joined by violets, black pepper, cloves, licorice and a touch of mocha.  The palate promises at a wine of great purity, elegance and balance to come.  Layer upon layer of dark fruit and spice flavours seamlessly wrap around crisp acidity and a wonderful texture of very fine, firm tannins.  Very, very long finish.  Drink 2025 – 2060+.  Tasted August 2009.