Domaine Gauby

Whilst supping with some wine companions a couple of weeks ago at Hakkasan in London, I suffered a small panic attack.  The group consisted of long-time friend and fellow master of wine Sam Harrop, my co-worker at eRobertParker.com Neal Martin, and a friend from a circle of oenophiles in Singapore who’d been in town to run the London Marathon.  Rather dauntingly, the wine list was handed to me.  The ability to quickly, nonchalantly hone-in on an interesting yet unpretentious bottle for an erudite group of wino mates is one I do not possess.  My eyes sluggishly crawled over page after page of not quite wines from classic regions, silently praying for the cleverest of names to wink at me.  The natives were just on the verge of ordering a second palate-cleansing beer when I finally spotted in less frequented “other regions” add-ons at the back of list, the wine:  Gauby’s Le Soula Blanc 2001.  The waiter poured a small amount into my glass and upon first sniff of those familiar, distinctively complex, elegantly evolving aromas, a latent memory was jogged and the panic attack hit.  I’d forgotten to report a very important tasting I’d done a few months back.

In February 2009, Frank Herbaux of the Singapore based wine importer and agent Estima Consulting, invited me to join him and his team for a tasting of the new releases of Domaine Gauby.  I’m something of a fan of Fenouillèdes wines having visited the remote beauty of the domaine of the aforementioned MW a couple of years ago, which just happens to be right next door to Domaine Gauby.  I didn’t visit Gauby on that occasion and though I’ve tasted some of the wines several times, I’d never tasted through the range, so I leapt at the opportunity.

Domaine Gauby is situated in and around the tiny, bucolic Roussillon town of Calce, inland from Perpignan and a short drive from the Cataluña border of Spain.  Exiting the A9 and driving northwest into the eastern Pyrenees though the quiet, winding roads and precipitous hills of timeless beauty is a little bitter-sweet.  This is a forgotten corner of France that is both wonderfully unspoilt and tragically neglected.  Admittedly in recent years a handful of producers have set up camp in the Fenouillèdes and begun to deservedly gain international attention for some impeccably crafted wines from ancient vines, thanks to their much needed financial injections.  But most of the longstanding wine producers here are desperate.  They have no idea how and where to sell their traditionally styled wines (e.g. Vins Doux Naturels) in today’s rapidly changing wine markets.  Some struggle to rid themselves of the most amazing vineyards containing museum-piece vines, even at a shave above the price the French government will give them to grub-up.

So Domaine Gauby is a little special in this respect.  Born into one of those longstanding producer families, when Gerard Gauby took the reins in the 1980s he was set to become one of the forerunners to developing the potential of the old vines and unique terroir of this region.  Much of this development came about through an initial period of hard-graft as much as trial and error in the early days.  More than twenty years on, Gerard Gauby’s meticulous care for his vines tends to follow biodynamic principals that have been personally tested over 12-13 years of farming this way.  In the winery he solely uses natural yeasts and principals – no chaptalization, acidification, fining or filtration.  He will not work with stainless steel, only cement and wood (including wooden fermenters and old foudres for inert storage).

During the tasting, Frank points out to me that amongst Gauby’s current range three “levels” can be identified, loosely following the Burgundian model: villages, premier cru and grand cru.  Respectively, Gauby’s levels are labelled: Les Calcinaires (villages level, produced from limestone soils and younger vines), Vieilles Vignes (premier cru level, made from very old vines), and the individually named wines of Coume Ginestre and La Muntada (the Grand Crus).  For the record, Le Soula is a separate partnership project with one of Gauby’s neighbours, Eric Laguerre.   

The vines of Gauby’s vineyards are a melange predominately composed of the traditional varietals of the region with a few more recent yet climatically compatible arrivals such as Syrah.  The whites are composed of Grenache Blanc, Grenache Gris, Muscat, Macbeo, Chardonnay and Carignan Blanc.  The reds - Carignan, Grenache Noir, Syrah and Mourvedre.  Some of the vines for the Vieilles Vignes wines are over 125 years old and average yields for the Vieilles Vignes and single vineyard wines are just 15-20 hl / ha (sometimes less).  

Gerard Gauby’s trailblazing principals have led to the Domaine’s current style of wines, demonstrating seamless balance that is neither fruit-bomb nor wallflower, and that effortlessly speaks of provenance.  What’s more, the quality of his awe-inspiring manifestation of the region’s unique characteristics has led to Domaine Gauby’s position as the region’s undisputed benchmark.  So good are these wines on their own or with Asian foods that I hope in Asia at least to see Gauby’s and other commendable Fenouillèdes wines soon making their way into local sommelier recommendations sections at the front of restaurant lists!

Tasting Notes

Domaine Gauby Vieilles Vignes Blanc 2005, Vin de Pays Cotes Catalanes
92 points
A blend of Macbeo, Grenache Blanc, Chardonnay, Grenache Gris and Carignan Blanc.  Pale lemon yellow colour.  Toasted almonds, creamy oatmeal, warm peaches, golden delicious apple and white pepper on the nose.  Great backbone of crisp acidity and a nice silky texture.  Tons of minerals.  Medium to full body and a very long finish.  Drink now to 2015.  Tasted February 2009.

Domaine Gauby Vieilles Vignes Blanc 2006, Vin de Pays Cotes Catalanes
88 points
A blend of Macbeo, Grenache Blanc, Chardonnay, Grenache Gris and Carignan Blanc.  Medium lemon yellow colour.  Oxidative, nutty, evolving nose with notes of butterscotch, apricots and honeycomb.  The medium to full bodied palate is very crisp with the fruit showing perhaps less potential for further evolution than the previous (2005) vintage.  Long finish with a few minerals.  Drink now to 2011.  Tasted February 2009.  

Domaine Gauby Coume Ginestre Blanc 2005, Vin de Pays Cotes Catalanes
98 points
A 50 / 50 blend of Grenache Gris and Grenache Blanc from vines averaging 60 years old.  Pale to medium lemon to yellow colour.  The nose is simply incredible, beginning with an enticing yeasty / toasty character and giving way to lemon tart, musk melon, juicy pears, fennel seeds and preserved ginger.  The palate has an elegantly crafted medium+ body with a nervy intensity of flavour layers, crisp acid and minerality.  Very long finish.  Drink now to 2018+.  Tasted February 2009. 

Domaine Gauby Coume Ginestre Blanc 2003, Vin de Pays Cotes Catalanes
95 points
A 50 / 50 blend of Grenache Gris and Grenache Blanc from vines averaging 60 years old.  Medium lemon to yellow colour.  Another remarkable nose providing evolving aromas of hazelnuts, oatmeal, kaya jam, apple crumble and a wild-ferment yeastiness.  Full body with plenty of rich, concentrated fruit, balanced by medium to high acidity.  The characteristic minerals of this wine peek though the layers of the long finish.  Drink now to 2014.  Tasted February 2009.

Domaine Gauby Les Calcinaires Rouge 2007, Cotes du Roussillon Villages
90 points
A blend of mainly Syrah with Mourvedre, Grenache Noir and Carignan.  Deep purple colour.  Very pretty, vibrant primary fruit nose: dark cherry, blackberry/blueberry, star anise, cassia and cumin.  Medium bodied with concentrated dark berry and spice flavours enlivened by medium to high acidity.  Medium+ level of approachable tannins.  Great balance with a long peppery finish.  Drink now to 2015.  Tasted February 2009.

Domaine Gauby Vieilles Vignes Rouge 2005, Cotes du Roussillon Villages
92 points
Made predominately from 125 year Carignan vines blended with Syrah, Grenache Noir and Mourvedre.  Medium ruby to garnet colour.  Meaty, earthy aromas on the nose with notes of saucisson, chargrilled mushrooms and hung game complimenting the ripe plum and blackberry fruit aromas.  Waft of cloves.  The medium+ bodied palate is elegantly fruited with a medium level of silky tannins and a high, refreshing level of acidity.  Long, chalky finish.  Drink now to 2019.  Tasted February 2009.

Domaine Gauby Vieilles Vignes Rouge 2006, Cotes du Roussillon Villages
91 points
Made predominately from 125 year Carignan vines blended with Syrah, Grenache Noir and Mourvedre.  Medium garnet-purple.  Slightly reduced, warm plums, black pepper and liquorice aromas.  A little mute.  The palate is tightly knit with a good intensity of restrained dark berry fruit and a medium+ level of finely grained tannins.  Medium to high acidity and a long finish.  Needs another 6 or so months to open up.  Drink 2010 to 2017.  Tasted February 2009.

Domaine Gauby La Muntada Rouge 2005, Cotes du Roussillon Villages
95 points
Made predominately from 125 year Carignan vines blended with Syrah, Grenache Noir and Mourvedre.  Very bright, medium-intense ruby to garnet colour.  Wonderfully perfumed nose with notes of violets, anise, cardamom and jasmine supporting the core of kirsch and warm blackberries.  Hint of truffles.  The palate provides equally impressive structure with high acidity and medium to firm, finely grained tannins.  Tons of juicy fruit and minerals yet exquisitely balanced.  Very long finish.  Drink now to 2020+.  Tasted February 2009.    

Domaine Gauby La Muntada Rouge 2006, Cotes du Roussillon Villages
94 points
Made predominately from 125 year Carignan vines blended with Syrah, Grenache Noir and Mourvedre.  Pale ruby to garnet colour.  Fragrant aromas of ripe raspberry, violets, forest floor, game and a touch of loam.  Crisp acidity and a medium level of silky tannins support the earthy, spiced fruit flavours.  Long, peppery finish.  Incredibly elegant - almost Pinot-esque.  Drink now to 2016+.  Tasted February 2009.